![]() I also encourage some back-up by having a decoy with a sleeve hidden in close proximity just in case the muzzle comes off. I do like having a second person (most preferably the training instructor presiding) do a safety check. I don’t like doing this because it ruins the realism of the encounter to some degree. Some people allow the decoy doing the actual muzzle attack (since it is his ass on the line with no equipment on) to make a secondary safety check. Do this gently but firmly, and don’t wrench the dog’s neck. Next, grasp the muzzle top and bottom in both hands and try to “roll” the muzzle down off the dog’s snout to mimic the pawing action the dog can make to insure that the muzzle cannot be taken off by a determined dog. The muzzle should stay securely fastened. The handler should grab the muzzle underneath and gently but firmly lift the dog straight up by the muzzle. Once the muzzle is secure, a safety check must be performed. An experienced trainer can help you select the right size. You should try a few different ones and settle on one that secures nicely and is comfortable for the dog. ![]() The dog should be able to breathe and pant normally, and even bark and clack his jaws inside the muzzle. Make sure you choose a muzzle that fits comfortably. The over head strap is not the key part of the safe operation of the muzzle. These muzzles are safe to use if properly secured. Some muzzles only have the two straps that fasten behind the head, and not the over head strap. There are also “Belgian Ring” style muzzles of similar design but these often come with bite-bars covered with leather and affixed to the inside of the muzzle for the dog to grip during a muzzle fight. The typical agitation muzzle you see is a “Dondi” style three-strap muzzle, which buckles behind the ears (this is the part that secures the muzzle) and one strap that goes over the head, between the ears, and secures to the head strap. Most agitation muzzles have a reinforced steel bar framing the leading edge of the muzzle to keep the leather from collapsing on the dog’s mouth when he makes contact. Be sure you have an actual agitation muzzle and not just an everyday-wear muzzle. There are numerous brands and types of protection muzzles. ![]() One of those techniques is the muzzle attack. ![]() Because of this, we have numerous techniques that we use to simulate a real street bite. A real street bite is the one thing that as police dog trainers, we cannot actually set up and practice as it would happen on the street. ![]()
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